Resources
Resources mean many different things. In some cases it's instruction, or links to other sites of value, or merely a FAQ for those with some basic questions on where they want to go or what is the weather usually at that time of year.On this page we're going to post a certain number of reliable trip logs that one can read over to better help in their planning. The trip logs are great as they help you to see the daily life in some cases as individuals meander their way down our rugged west coast.
For those wanting other information, check out our other headings or email us with your questions. I have lost a number of trip logs over the years which I really regret, but will start off one of the older ones and add on others as they become available.
Featured Trip Log
“Ruth Salmon & Adam Judge” Summer 2001 kayak tour from Smith Sound to Shelter BayCape Caution 2001
Our tour south from Smith Sound on the Central Coast to Shelter Bay was the second trip where we have taken advantage of the excellent advice and service provided by Pat Kervin at Odyssey Kayaking. Our transport across Queen Charlotte Strait was a local water taxi service who, together with Pat, lent us their local knowledge in helping plan the trip.Taking 13 days to cover the approximately 34nm of coastline gave us ample time to relax and explore our surroundings. It also provided plenty of flexibility to our schedule considering the stretches of open water and the probability of bad weather somewhere along the way. It is worth noting that the campsites at Burnett Bay, Skull Cove and Shelter Bay are used by other tour companies along this coast throughout the summer. There is not a lot of activity in that area, but you do meet groups the odd time. William Megil of CERF is doing whale research with summer students out of Skull Cove and it is possible to stop in briefly and take advantage of their hospitality.
Start of the Trip
Days 1-4 ~ "Wheelhouse Bay", Smith Sound
Day 1.Having loaded the kayaks onto the water taxi the previous night , we set off early from Port Hardy on the 2-3 hour trip across Queen Charlotte Strait to Smith Sound on the mainland. An impromptu break in our crossing to follow a pair of Humpback whales added to our excitement and proved a good omen for the next 2 weeks.
On the skippers recommendation, we were dropped off on an idyllic pocket beach christened "Wheelhouse Bay". This is located 2nm Northeast of Jones Cove, 1nm south of the Search Islands in Browning Channel and provided a perfect site to base camp and explore Smith Sound. The 200 yard long sand beach shelves gently and is well protected for launches and landing. It gets its name from the wreck of a fishing boat at its western end where all but the wheelhouse has been slowly engulfed by the sands . There is plenty of space above high water for several campsites if needs be and a fast flowing stream coming down by the wheelhouse provides easily accessible fresh water.
Day 2.
Paddling NE along the coast towards Smith Inlet, there was thankfully little evidence from the water of the logging activity that goes on in the area. We spent a leisurely day exploring the Search Islands and Indian Island en route to Takush Harbour and Fly Basin approx. 5nm from the campsite. At the easterly end of Fly Basin, a short trail takes you across land to the Takush River estuary and into Ahclakerho channel. For our paddle back to camp, although largely protected from the swells of the open ocean, a moderate westerly wind in the afternoon produced choppy waters along Browning Channel.
Day 3.
Another beautiful day allowed us the luxury of simply sitting back, exploring the beach with its rocky promontories and enjoying the tranquility. A gentle paddle took us out to the Watcher Islands where a pair of eagles were nesting in one of the few trees on the rocky outcrop. In the evening, looking out across Smith Sound from the kitchen, we were treated to another stunning sunset.
Days 4-7 ~ Indian Cove and Blunden Bay
Day 4.After checking the marine forecast and sea conditions for Egg Island, we set off for Indian Cove, situated 6.5nm south between Neck Ness and Cape Caution. Paddling out of Smith Sound the waters are protected by a series of small islands close to shore that offer tremendous views east towards the Coast Mountains. Passing the sheltered landings at Jones Cove and Protection Cove, a short stretch of more open water around Milthorp Point led us into Hoop Bay. This large arcing bay has a predominantly rocky shoreline. A reef stretching across its entrance breaks up the worst of the swells and provides a haven for a large number of seabirds including murrelets, cormorants, aukelets and a variety of ducks. On the SE side of the bay we landed for lunch on a large sand beach, clearly marked on CHS chart 3550 that seemed a good spot to camp if you wanted to stay longer.
The remaining 2nm to Indian Cove are exposed waters with rebounding waves close in as you pass the rocky headland of Neck Ness. Leaving Hoop Bay we found ourselves amongst a group of Humpback whales feeding some 200 yards offshore. It was such an exhilarating feeling to have the whales surface close to the kayaks then glide gracefully back beneath the surface, out of view. To be out there alone on the open water with the whales around us was a humbling experience and a moment we shall always remember.
Paddling into Indian Cove between the small islets, the size of the white sand beach soon becomes apparent. As we discovered next day, the sea at its narrow entrance can get pretty disturbed when the wind or swell picks up but once inside it is as protected as it gets. The beach itself is a perfect horseshoe shaped bay around 400 yards long with plenty of space on the sand above high tide for tents and kayaks.
As you walk the beach, the sand has that quality that makes a squeaking sound as your foot rocks through it's step. In the Kwakwala language the name for Indian Cove was loosely translated as the beach that talks. At its southern end a site has been cleared in the forest and next to this a trail cuts across the narrow headland into Blunden Bay giving you access to another beautiful beach. Blunden Bay is a considerably larger, more exposed beach, divided in two by a small headland where a ruin of an old barge stands rusting away on the rocks. Unfortunately the headland prevents you from reaching a creek on foot from Indian Cove that runs into the south of the bay. However, the beach here is still sandy and clear enough of rocks to land kayaks and collect freshwater.Day 5.
Buoyed by the excitement of our previous days encounters and a favourable weather forecast we headed back to Hoop Bay with the hope of catching up again with the whales. After negotiating a territorial Sea Lion that guarded the point at Neck Ness we spent the day watching for the telltale water spouts, then arching backs and waiving tail fins of the whales as they dived beneath us.
A paddle along Hoop Reef also gave us a close up of all the birds and seals that rest here on the rocks as the swell crashes over.In search of fresh water, we checked out the streams marked on the CHS chart that run into Hoop Bay and the small un-named bay north of Indian Cove. Rocks and kelp made landing at both these sites virtually impossible, at least between mid to low tide, so rather than risk the boats we returned to the creek in Blunden Bay. By this time an afternoon wind had again picked up. Combined with only a moderate swell this made the short hop back round into Indian Cove pretty bumpy; a timely reminder for us as to how quickly the conditions can change.
Day 6. A discouraging forecast and a stiff breeze persuaded us to postpone our journey south around Cape Caution and to investigate the land around us instead. The rocky peninsula that forms the northern end of Indian Cove, with its Paintbrush and wild strawberries, provides a great vantage point overlooking the cove and a spot to catch some sun if you are lucky. For a change of scenery we cut across to Blunden Bay to walk the half mile white sand beach strewn with driftwood to the headland. In the evening, our decision to stay in camp was fully rewarded when an adult Grizzly strolled onto the beach as we washed the dishes. Ignoring our kitchen area, and wandering slowly towards the tent, he seemed completely unaware of us until our shouts of persuasion encouraged him back into the forest.
Days 7-10 ~ Burnett Bay
Day 7.To get the best of the weather, we broke camp early, loaded the kayaks and paddled out of Indian Cove bound for Burnett Bay. Although only 8nm in total, this leg of the trip in our minds was the most daunting with the infamous waters around Cape Caution to confront. Once in the open water though our confidence grew. A 4-6ft NW swell and a gentle tail wind made for comfortable paddling and gave us the opportunity to enjoy the desolate beauty of the coastline. Taking Pat's advice we stayed at least a half-mile offshore rounding the Cape to avoid the more disturbed water close in caused by rebounding waves and a shallow sea. From this position we took advantage of the conditions and made a beeline for Bremner Point at the southern tip of Burnett Bay, watching out for whale spouts on the way, imagined or otherwise.
The magnitude of Burnett Bay soon becomes clear as the three miles long surf beach slowly stretches out along the coast as you head south. Fully exposed to the Pacific swells, the sea here is free to crash onto its sands depositing mounds of driftwood, much of it the remnants of trees lost by the loggers at some point in time.Fortunately, a small pocket of beach tucked in between Bremner Point and the mouth of Evader Creek is protected enough for even these surf amateurs to land successfully. At low tide this leaves a long walk with all your gear to where you can pitch tent, across the creek on the main stretch of Burnett beach. The most protected landing point also gets cut off from this camp at high tide by a small headland at the mouth of the creek.
The sands here above high water will comfortably fit several tents and one of the few large trees along the shoreline, set back in the undergrowth, is accessible to hang food. As for fresh water, a small stream can be found at the north end of Burnett Bay adjacent to the two small islands sitting just offshore. Otherwise you will have to trek a mile or so up Evader Creek to where the brackish water ends - a point that we failed to reach on one half-hearted attempt. Despite its size, opportunities for camping elsewhere along the beach are restricted by both high water and the stacks of driftwood that litter the sand.By mid afternoon, our new campsite was proving to be an excellent vantage point for more whale watching. From under the tarp we were able to watch a group of maybe five gray whales feeding in the surf zone. Only yards out from the shoreline amongst the breakers and foaming water, the whales captivated us as each wave threatened to leave one of them stranded. The remainder of the day slipped gently by.
Day 8. Grey skies and our first day of rain provided a wild backdrop for a hike; a five mile round trip along the beach with our only distraction coming from the occasional plane flying low overhead. More direct contact with the outside world came when we found a message in a bottle washed up on the sands. It later turned out to be from a family in Fort St. John who had thrown it overboard from a BC ferry. Not exactly Robinson Crusoe but we enjoyed exchanging photos; us at the site of the discovery and the family celebrating their sons 2nd birthday that happened to fall on the same day.
Opposite the two islets where the beach starts to become more cobbled a short trail into the forest leads to a tiny cabin that the owners welcome you to use if needs be. We took the opportunity to get out of the rain and have lunch here while flicking through the surprisingly full "guest books". The cabin also has a small wood stove and bunk in case of emergencies.
As we returned along the beach, back to camp, the gray whales returned to their feeding grounds in the surf. Already cold and wet, I took up the challenge of getting a new perspective of them from the kayak. It is fair to say that the beach remained the better option, and a drier one despite the rain.
Day 9.In keeping with the relaxing pace of this trip we spent another day on dry land, this time exploring inland along Evader Creek. At low tide, the creek meanders around a large basin of flat sand that forms an impressive centerpiece to the surrounding forest. Beyond this we soon found ourselves in a refreshingly tranquil habitat, away from the ceaseless noise of the surf. A narrow strip of grass meadow running along the banks of the creek plays home to a diverse array of birds, animals and flowering plants that provides a striking contrast to the beach only a short distance away through the trees. Although a river otter was the largest animal sighted, earth diggings around a clump of sedge and the abundance of rice root lilies, a favourite food of bears, kept us on our toes and our imaginations running wild.
Days 10-11 ~ Skull Cove via Slingsby and Schooner Channels
Day 10.Our route today covering around 11nm took us along Slingsby and Schooner Channels, around Bramham Island, to Skull Cove located on the south side of the island. Our departure from Burnett Bay was dictated by the timing of slack water through the Outer Narrows at the western entrance of Slingsby Channel. This was predicted using the published current tables for Nakwakto Rapids that have Slingsby Outer Narrows and Schooner Channel as secondary stations together with information from an independent web page (http://tbone.biol.sc.edu/tide/sitesel.html) that generates similar data in a user friendly graphics format. The tidal currents flowing through these channels meant our planned route was dependent on us paddling east along Slingsby on the flood tide then waiting in Treadwell Bay for slack water again before skirting the entrance to Nakwakto Rapids and heading out South along Schooner Channel on the ebb tide. Nakwakto Rapids themselves are formed as the immense volumes of water from Seymour and Belize Inlets force their way through a 300m wide channel as the inlets empty and fill with each tidal cycle. Ebb currents here can reach up to 14.5 knots, the second fastest tidal flow in BC, with resulting currents in Slingsby and Schooner channels being 60% and 40% of this figure respectively. The time taken for the movement of such huge bodies of water means that slack water times differ significantly from high and low tide times and the rate of flow makes the duration of slack very short.
With all this in mind we set off under grey skies that soon cleared to reveal a glorious sunny day. In the calm conditions we made quicker than anticipated progress and as we turned east and headed toward Slingsby Channel the swells grew steadily as our progress ground to a halt. We reckoned that we had arrived here 30 minutes early. Paddling hard only to inch gradually toward Vigilance Point and the Outer Narrows, it was clear the ebb current was still flowing. As this encounters the westerly ocean swell and an incoming tide large standing waves form and we found ourselves being lifted up then sliding down the face of gently rolling 15-20ft waves. Thankfully conditions were otherwise calm and we knew that any time soon the waters would all be moving in our favour.
Passing Vigilance Point the waters soon flattened out and the serenity of our surroundings could again be appreciated. 2.5nm further a small inlet on the North side of Bramham Island, opposite Boot Point, provided a lunch spot on a tiny stone beach and the opportunity to collect water from a stream in the western corner of the inlet. Kayak landing here was tricky and required a clamber over rocks to get to the fast flowing waterfall. With the flood tide now picking up, we crossed straight over to the north side of Slingsby Channel and paddled down to Treadwell Bay where we were greeted by a large boat that acts as a diving centre. Having time to kill, we found a landing spot in the sun and sat reading until the tidal flow eased again.
A procession of boats racing through Nakwakto Rapids greeted our departure time as we cut between Buttress Islet and Goose Point into Schooner Channel. By following the shoreline of Bramham Island we soon arrived in the protected natural harbour of Skull Cove. At low tide, with a ripe smelling mud exposed, none of the numerous landing spots seemed particularly appealing and it wasn't clear initially where the campsites that Jim and Pat had described were located. A ladder leading up from a small beach near the Southwest entrance to the Cove took us into the makeshift village of the Coastal Ecosystems Research Council (CERF) who conduct field studies on marine mammals including the whales that gather in the food rich waters at the entrance to Schooner Channel. The people here cheerfully directed us to a grassy area just across from the ladder, behind which a number of campsites and interconnecting trails have been cleared amongst the trees. It was quite a change from the freedom offered by the beaches we had become used to. Shady and dank, we were glad to be heading off again the following morning, leaving the midges behind.Days 11-13 Shelter Bay
Day 11. With only 7nm to Shelter Bay, yet more fine weather allowed us to explore the Islands of the Murray Labyrinth and Emily Group en route to our final destination. The numerous islands offer terrific paddling in relatively protected waters with great views of the Coast Mountains as a backdrop. After several hours bobbing around we cut across to the mainland at Alison Harbour and followed the coastline as it arced southeasterly toward Shelter Bay. The Southgate Group continues to provide protection from the choppy waters and strong afternoon breezes of Queen Charlotte Strait for most of this stretch; our only real exposure to the elements coming as we approached and rounded Westcott Point leading in to Shelter Bay.
The white sand beach that greeted us (19), tucked into the Northwest corner of Shelter Bay, was to become our home for the remainder of the trip. Again, several campsites have been cleared in the forest leaving plenty of space for tents and kitchen areas. Gently shelving sands and the line of islets that buffer them make this picturesque beach great for kayak camping (20). Although small, there is plenty to explore along the shoreline with a larger rocky bay next door together with some short trails that lead through the forest.
In no rush to do anything in the late afternoon sun, we unloaded the kayaks for the last time, set up camp and wished we had a further two weeks or more to enjoy these surroundings.
Day 12.
With no real appetite to head further down the coast, we spent the day paddling around Shelter Bay; our only goal being to fill up on fresh water. A break in the low rock wall that forms the northern side of the Bay takes you into Lower Lagoon although, as we discovered, access by kayak is restricted by the height of the tide. Continuing further into the Bay several small beaches at the end of two short inlets provide landing opportunities although none are particularly scenic. However, a fast flowing stream coming down from Yoder Lake onto a rocky beach in the more southerly inlet provides a good source of water. Later in the day a strong headwind picked up and made our paddle back from here to camp a hard slog. Luckily, this took my attention away from the salmon farm set inside Shelter Bay by the Wallace Islands. The large raft of floating net pens, no doubt, having as bigger impact on the local ecology as they have on the aesthetic quality of their surroundings.Day 13.
Perhaps fitting that our final day brought with it clear blue skies and a fresh breeze that soon had the tent and sleeping bags aired and ready for packing. The sun shining into the forest produced a magical lighting, the verdant canopy overhead casting a dappled shade over the ferns and mosses on the forest floor.
 |
 |
 |